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Product Descriptions

Provides direct 24 hour control of most loads, electrical loads up to 40 amps. 1 to 12 ON/OFF operations each day with minimum ON/OFF times of 1 hour. Manual override without changing settings. Comes with one ON and one OFF tripper. Switch rating: each pole; 40 amp resistive, 120-480 VAC; 40 amp tungsten, inductive or 1000 VA pilot duty, 120-277 VAC; 2 HP (24 FLA) 120 VAC; 5 HP (28 FLA) 240 VAC.

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Technical Details

- Industrial, commercial and residential applications
- Highest HP ratings in the industry up to 40 amps
- Direct 24 hour control
- Provides 1 to 12 On/Off operations
- Equipped with one "On" and one "Off" tripper
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Replacing a Broken Pool Light Bulb

Most of my questions begin with removing the assembly from the pool (while still submerged), which is not shown here. I'll see if there's other videos that may help with this.

This video was the most helpfull of all the others I've seen. My first time changing my bulb wasn't going well. I too was putting gasket over lense and housing (I should have paid more attention when deassembling). Anyway thanks for the instruction. One thing I noticed about the video was to top of the ring should be lined up with the arrow on the housing (same with the top of the lense). I don't know the significance, but figure it's there for a reason.

Assuming your light still comes on normally and you know where the exposed wires are, have a buy some "liquid black tape' at lowes.
apply a layer, let dry, and repeat two more times- i am assuming you have found the exposed wire ?
If your light is fed by ground faulted GFCI circuit breaker, you should be safe from electrocution